How to get the Peaky Blinders style

The Evolution of Thomas Shelby’s Shirts: From Grit to Refinement

Few characters in modern television have influenced menswear quite like Thomas Shelby in Peaky Blinders. While the three-piece suits and overcoats often take centre stage, it is the subtle evolution of his shirts that quietly charts his journey—from street-level operator to political power broker.

At Acorn Fabrics Ltd, we understand that true style lies in the details. Nowhere is that more evident than in the shirts worn by Shelby across the series and into the latest film.

Season One: The Working Man’s Armour

In the early episodes, Shelby’s shirts are rooted firmly in practicality and class identity. He frequently wears detachable penny (club) collars, a hallmark of early 1920s dress. These rounded collars, often stark white against striped or lightly coloured plain shirt bodies, were designed for utility—easy to replace, easy to clean, and economical.

Just as telling is his frequent choice to wear a straight collar but without a tie, buttoned all the way to the top which enthusiasts call an ‘air tie’. While it might look a little odd for a modern lounge suit, it certainly works for an authentic period style like that of the Shelbys. In the context of the time, this was unconventional—almost rebellious. It signals a man unconcerned with aristocratic norms, prioritising control and intimidation over etiquette.

He also occasionally adopts collarless (grandad) shirts, reinforcing his working-class roots and hinting at a man who is as comfortable in the factory as he is in a boardroom.

Mid-Series: The Rise of Structure and Authority

As Shelby’s influence grows, so too does the refinement of his wardrobe. The shirts begin to shift:

• The rounded penny collars gradually give way to more structured, pointed collars
• Ties appear more frequently, though still understated in tone
• Fabrics remain robust, but the overall presentation becomes sharper and more deliberate

This transition mirrors his ascent. No longer just a gang leader, Shelby is stepping into the world of business and politics. Costume design subtly reflects this shift—his clothing becomes less about survival and more about projection.

Indeed, by later seasons, Shelby is seen wearing ties more consistently, signalling both wealth and social mobility.

The Latest Film: Precision and Power

In the latest Peaky Blinders film, Shelby’s shirting reaches its most refined expression.
We now see:

• Tab collars—designed to frame the tie knot and lift it forward
• Tie pins—a precise, controlled detail that speaks to authority and confidence
• Cleaner, more luxurious cloths with a softer drape

This is no longer the man of Small Heath fighting for survival. This is a statesman, a strategist, a figure operating at the highest levels.

One particularly striking example is a shirt crafted in an ecru twill, offering a subtle warmth and texture that stands apart from stark white. The fabric catches the light with quiet sophistication—understated yet unmistakably premium.

It’s a cloth remarkably similar in character to our own Balmoral ecru fabric at Acorn Fabrics Ltd:
rich in handle, beautifully woven, and perfectly suited to structured collars such as tab or straight styles.

The jacket

According to Stephanie Collier, the esteemed costume designer who worked on the first season of Peaky Blinders, the TV versions of the Blinders were intentionally dressed in longer coats to ‘get that high noon feeling’, with their hems flapping in the wind as the boys made their way to each showdown. And while we’re not suggesting you head off to meet any of your acquaintances with stolen military-grade machine guns, you can certainly achieve an equally impressive effect with a long, lapelled coat with heavy dark fabrics. Herringbone tweed should do the trick, although there are a variety of other heritage patterns and fabrics which are also good options – ideally in shades of charcoal, navy, racing green or black.

The suit

At the time the TV series is set, England was undergoing some pretty pivotal style revelations – watched closely by a whole host of other nations, all of whom were hugely influenced by happenings on Savile Row. The three piece suit was one of these style revelations, and remains just as versatile and popular today. For the classic Peaky Blinders look, it looks best in tweed, checks and other textures, ideally again in restrained shades of grey, blue or brown. Occasionally, you’ll see glints of gold or silver on the show, usually from pocket watches and similarly historically-accurate accessories.

A good waistcoat is also an essential element of your new ensemble, and Collier recommends getting the trousers narrowed and shortened, drawing the eyes upward to the suit itself.

Interestingly, you’ve got a range of options here for the Peaky Blinders style, as each member of the gang carved out their own niche with their suits. Tommy Shelby, the leader of the gang, always turns heads with timeless and elegant suits that project an air of refined sensibility – perfectly becoming of the reasonable, modest businessman it often suits him to portray.

Meanwhile, his brother Arthur Shelby serves as the gang’s enforcer, and therefore favours rougher and heavier wool suits with distinctive cuffs and bulky overcoats. Typically, these were worn by gentlemen of the business class, and Arthur notably eschews many of the little sophisticated touches his brother often displays – fitting, given his general lack of interest in rubbing shoulders with Birmingham’s elite social classes.

The boots and hat

In keeping with the high-cropped trousers, the outfit is best rounded off with a pair of well-worn leather boots, ideally in dark brown or even black leather, ending just above your ankle. This was perfect footwear for the working class Shelby boys, who often tramped through the dirty pathways and dusty cobblestones of post-war Birmingham.

Finally, there’s that eponymous hat. Now, you don’t necessarily need a baker boy cap – a six-piece section cap will perfectly suffice. We wouldn’t recommend putting a razor blade in it either, for a whole host of reasons. It’s highly difficult, it’s highly illegal, it’s highly dangerous, and it’s not even historically accurate – it’s one of the few areas that the show has taken a bit of creative liberty with. The actual Peaky Blinders put cardboard strips in their caps, which meant that fights weren’t quite as gruesome as they are on the show. A hard piece of cardboard hitting your eye at speed wouldn’t exactly tickle, though, either.

At Acorn Fabrics Ltd, we believe that the right cloth can do the same for any garment. Whether recreating a period look or designing for the modern gentleman, it begins with fabric—because true elegance is woven, not worn.

Navigate our vast collection of cotton fabric via out ‘fabric types‘ page which will help you browse between subtle plains, classic stipes to bolder checks and printed fabrics. All available by the metre – and if you have any questions or you need any advice, just give us a call on 01282 698 662. We’re here to help!